Orthodox Christmas and Serbian New Year

Visitors staying in Belgrade into January discover that the holiday season does not end on 1 January. Orthodox Christmas falls on 7 January and Serbian New Year on the night of 13 to 14 January, both following the Julian calendar. For anyone staying, these are genuine occasions rather than afterthoughts.

Why the dates differ

The Serbian Orthodox Church follows the Julian calendar, which currently runs thirteen days behind the Gregorian one.

That places Christmas on 7 January and the church New Year on the night of 13 to 14 January.

The civil new year on 1 January is also celebrated, so the city effectively has two new year nights.

Badnje veče, 6 January

Christmas Eve is marked on the evening of 6 January, with an oak branch burned outside churches after dark.

The gathering at the Cathedral and at Saint Sava is open to everyone and is worth seeing even as an observer.

It is a quiet, family occasion rather than a party, and the atmosphere is quite different from 31 December.

Christmas Day, 7 January

Christmas is a public holiday. Shops, banks and offices are closed, much like 1 January.

Restaurants that do open serve a traditional lunch, and these need to be booked in advance.

The traditional greeting is Hristos se rodi, answered with Vaistinu se rodi.

The Christmas meal

Roast pork is traditional, along with a round bread containing a coin, which is broken and shared at the table.

Whoever finds the coin is said to have luck for the year, and this is done in most households.

Restaurants offering a Christmas lunch follow the same pattern and it books out early.

Serbian New Year, 13 to 14 January

The night of 13 to 14 January is celebrated widely, with programmes in restaurants, clubs and on the main squares.

The atmosphere is similar to 31 December but with noticeably smaller crowds and lower prices.

For many locals it is the better of the two nights, precisely because it is less pressured.

Prices compared with 31 December

Venue prices for 13 January are typically a third to a half lower than for 31 December, with the same programme.

Accommodation is also cheaper, as demand is far below the peak at the end of December.

Availability is better and bookings are still possible in the first week of January.

The open-air programme

The city usually organises a free programme on the main square for 13 January as well, with music and fireworks at midnight.

It is smaller than on 31 December and considerably less crowded, which suits families better.

The programme is announced at the end of December or in early January.

What is open between the holidays

From 2 to 6 January everything works normally, with the smallest crowds of the year in museums and restaurants.

From 8 January onwards the city is quiet again until the middle of the month.

This period is the easiest time to visit anything that normally requires queuing.

Decorations

The city keeps its holiday lighting up until the middle of January, after Serbian New Year.

That means the decorated streets can be seen without the December crowds, which many visitors prefer.

Christmas markets usually close after 7 January, earlier than the lights.

Planning a longer stay

A visit covering both 31 December and 7 January requires a stay of about ten days, which few visitors make.

A more practical option is to visit for 13 January instead, which is cheaper and calmer in every respect.

Flights in the second week of January are also considerably less expensive than around 1 January.

Religious observance

Churches are open to visitors throughout, including on Christmas, and there is no expectation of participation.

Modest dress is appropriate inside, and photography during services is not.

Services are in Church Slavonic and Serbian, and no one will expect a visitor to follow them.

A note on greetings

Srećna nova godina is used around 1 January and again around 14 January.

Hristos se rodi is used only around Christmas, and answering with Vaistinu se rodi is appreciated.

Both are said easily and are received warmly from a visitor, whatever the pronunciation.

Booking for 13 January

Bookings for Serbian New Year open later than for 31 December, usually only in December.

They fill more slowly, so a table can often still be found in the first week of January.

Terms are the same as for the main date, so ask for written confirmation with what is included.

Which night to choose

If the date itself does not matter, 13 January gives the same programme for considerably less money and with fewer people.

If you are travelling specifically for the experience of a Belgrade New Year, 31 December is the bigger occasion.

Visitors staying for a week between the two dates get the quietest and cheapest period of the whole winter.